Dwadasa Jyotirlingas and Astrology: An Astrologer's Pilgrimage

I interpret my first journey to India as an astrological pilgrimage that would confirm my cosmic identity as an astrologer through ritual, and expand my knowledge through study with revered masters. It was also a whirlwind introduction to some of the most important temples in India.

I had decided to go to South India first, specifically to request an audience master of Jaimini Astrology, Sri Iranganti Rangacharya in Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh, do Giri Valam at Arunachala in Tiruvannamalai and to do the yatra of the Nava Graha Temples near Kumbakonam.

There seems to be a pretty ancient, but not well known astrological aspect to the temples and you can even use the chart to find your Ishta Devata or personal Jyotirlinga. You may already know about these techniques. I became a Shiva bhakta, and specifically Jyotirlinga worshiper, during that same journey to the Nava Graha Sthanams.

What brought about my first journey to India was the fact that I didn't like my Solar Return for Thailand, where I was living at the time. I decided to go to India for a month. My birthday would fall within that month. I started in Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh, as I wanted to have an audience with Smt. Iranganti Rangacharya, one of the leading scholars on Jaimini Astrology. After Hyderabad I was going to start my temple pilgrimage with Srisailam and then move south to Kumbakonam. However, there was a general strike in Andhra so it was suggested that I go to Tamil Nadu first. I wasn't sure where to go, but the maid at the house where I was staying was a virtual encyclopedia regarding temples. She knew all of them! Even the small ones in tiny villages! She was amazing! I had told her that I was interested in Shakti Peethams - I had been to Kalighat already since I had flown into Kolkata. She suggested Kanchipuram, "Many temples, too big, too beautiful....Shakti Peet!" I decided to take her suggestion and took the train to Chennai and a bus to Kanchipuram. My birthday is January 1, and I arrived in Kanchi on the night of the 31st. On the morning of my birthday I received darshan of Sri Kanchi Kamakshi Devi, Sri Varadaraja Perumal and, most importantly Lord Shiva as Ekambareshwarar at Ekambaranathar Temple. Something happened to me on regarding the lingam that I still can't put into words, but an exchange of some sort happened. I then went to Tiruvannamalai. I was looking for temples where I could propitiate Sani to help my 2nd house - Dhanus Lagna, and found information about Arunachala Hill and how it is a manifestation of Lord Shiva. I wanted to do Giri Pradakshina there around the hill and also receive Darshan of Lord Annamailayar. Ekambaranthar and Annamailayar temples were the two most impressive temples that I had ever seen or experienced, and I soon found out that these temples were two of the five Pancha Bhootha Sthanams, where Shiva is worshipped as the five elements. I arrived on the evening of my birthday and had darshan of Lord Shiva. Annamailayar temple is where Lord Shiva is worshiped as fire, and in the garbagraha there is space for about 15 people to sit and revere lord Shiva up close. That little room was intensely hot, like a sauna, and I assure you that there is nothing in that room to heat it except the presence of the Lingam itself. I did Giri Pradakshina around Arunachala the next day and left for Kumbakonam the day after, at which time I embarked on the yatra that about which I have written previously.

From Kumbakonam I went back to Hyderabad, and then to SriSailam, which is one of the 12 Jyotirlinga temples. It is usually placed second on the list of importance, after Somnath in Gujarat. The mystical energy was palpable there, especially at night - I arrived at 2am. I stayed for 3 days and had many darshans. Booklets are always sold telling the myths and legends connected with the temples, and I found myself ruminating on the fact that there were 12 of them. Of course, my next thought, as an astrologer, was "I wonder if they correspond to the Rasis?" Which of course they do.

I have included a listing of the Rasis that correspond to each Jyotirlinga Temple along with the mantra for worship. To worship or propitiate a planet, use the temple that represents the planet's exaltation rasi:

Aries (exaltation of sun) rameshwaram “om namah shivaya namah rameshwaraya”

Taurus: (exaltation of moon) : somnath “om namah shivaya namah somnathaya”

Gemeni: (exaltation of rahu) : nageshwar “om namah shivaya namah nageshwaraya”

Cancer: (exaltation of jupiter) : omkareshwar “om namah shivaya namah omkareshwaraya”

Leo: ( ) : vaidynath “om namah shivaya namah vaidyanathaya”

Virgo: (exaltation of mercury) : mallikarjun “om namah shivaya namah mallikarjunaya”

Libra: (exaltation of Saturn ) : mahakaleshwar “om namah shivaya namah mahakaleshwaraya”

Scorpio: ( ) : ghashanesha “om namah shivaya namah ghrashaneshwaraya”

Sagitarius: (exaltation of ketu) : vishwanath “om namah shivaya namah vishwanathaya”

Capricorn: (exaltation of mars) : bhimshankara “om namah shivaya namah bhimshankaraya”

Aquarius: ( ) : kedarnath “om namah shivaya namah kedarnathaya”

Pisces: (exaltation of Venus) : tryambakeshwar “om namah shivaya namah tryambakeshwaraya”

It turned out that SriSailam represented the sign Virgo, which is my Arudha Lagna and Lord Buddha is my Atmakaraka. Of course, Buddha is exalted in Virgo so it turned out that I was worshiping my own Atma Linga! This began my love/obsession for Lord Shiva and the quest to find and visit my personal Jyotirlinga.

Thanjavur Big Temple: The "MUST-SEE" Monument of South India

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As you may have noticed, In this blog I try to steer away from India's well known monuments and sights. India has so much to offer in the realm of architectural monuments and historical edifices, that I tend to focus on the lesser known offerings.

I consider the Peruvudaiyar Koil, or Brihadeeswara Temple of Thanajavur to be a well known monument. A british TV documentary has even been done on it. So why am I featuring it in this blog? I had a dream that I was on a journey to Thanjavur, and the name Brihadeeswara kept repeating over and over again throughout the dream until I woke up.

The Brihadeeswara Temple was conceived by Emperor Raja Raja I (985-1013 AD) as the first of a series of great Tamil Chola building projects, and its foundations were laid in 1002 AD. The temple is the first building fully built by granite, the nearest sources of which are close to Tiruchchirapalli, about 60 km to the west of Thanjavur, and finished within 5yrs(1004AD – 1009 AD). The vimana or (temple tower) is 216 ft (66 m) high and is among the tallest of its kind in the world. The Kumbam (Kalasha or Chikharam) (apex or the bulbous structure on the top) of the temple is carved out of a single stone and weighs more than 80 tons.

This temple was the tallest building in the world at the time that it was built.

It is not my intention to make this the "go-to" article on the Brihadeeswara Temple, for that go to the Brihadeeswara Temple Site.

An excellent route by which to see this temple is from Tiruchirappalli. One could do a three to five day exploration of SriRangam, The Rock Fort and other sites in Trichy, the Chola Temples in Thanjavur, Kumbakonam for Nava Graha Yatra, and on to Chidambaram to see the Nataraj Temple there.

Mumbai Surprises: Maneckji Sett Agiary and The Elephanta Caves

I have to admit that Mumbai is probably my least favorite city in India. I find it too expensive and way too modern. Indeed, except for the fact that it is full of Indians it feels like it could be any other modern city in any other part of the world.

So imagine my surprise on finding just south of the Chatrapati Shivaji Terminal a real Zoroastrian Fire Temple! The Maneckji Sett Agiary or Fire Temple was built by the Parsi community in 1735. Except for the very interesting sculptures that flank the outside, the building itself is quite unremarkable.

While catching up with my correspondence in an email cafe, I became engaged with a Slovakian tourist who was experiencing extreme gastrointestinal discomfort. I am an avid proponent of Acupuncture and Chinese Herbs, and had brought a boatload of Po Chai pills to combat just such a problem if I encountered it myself. As I offered him two vials of the pills I saw fascinating photos of caves with beautiful sculptures. I asked if he had just visited Ajanta or Ellora. He replied that he hadn't visited those sites yet, but had just returned from the Elephanta Caves. I asked where they were located, and practically fell off my chair when he told me they were "in Mumbai." I knew I had to see them.

The Elephanta Caves are a network of sculpted caves located on Elephanta Island in Mumbai Harbour, 10 kilometers east of the city of Mumbai. The island, located on an arm of the Arabian Sea, consists of two groups of caves—the first is a large group of five Hindu caves, the second, a smaller group of two Buddhist caves. The Hindu caves contain rock cut stone sculptures dedicated to the god Shiva.

The rock cut architecture of the caves has been dated to between the 5th and 8th centuries. All the caves were also originally painted in the past, but now only traces remain.

The island was called Gharapuri (literally "the city of caves"), and was a Hindu place of worship until Portuguese rule began in 1534. The Portuguese called the island Elephanta on seeing its huge gigantic statue of an Elephant at the entrance.

To get to the Elephanta Caves, go to the counter at the Gateway of India and buy a round trip ticket. There is a fee to get into the caves as well as another small fee that you pay on arriving on the island. It is very important that you do not take food or drinks because the place is crawling with monkeys. I've seen families on the boat who've packed lunches and expect to have a picnic there. The monkeys end up with the food!

Navagraha Temples of Tamil Nadu: An Astrologer's Pilgrimage

As an astrologer, one of my dreams is to lead other astrologers on this pilgrimage to the Navagraha Temples around Kumbakonam in Tamil Nadu.

Nava Graha is the sanskrit term for the 7 classical planets Moon to Saturn and the two "shadow planets" Rahu and Ketu, also know as the North and South Node. There are a cluster of temples dating from the Chola period (10th to 13th centuries) around Kumbakonam. 8 of them are actually Shiva temples. The Surya temple is the only one that is dedicated to the Graha itself.

While others see things like the Taj Mahal, Agra Fort, Qutb Minar and the City Palace of Jaipur on their first journey to India, I went all the way to the southeastern tip of India to do this pilgrimage.

To understand why, I should explain that India has the longest unbroken astrological tradition in the world. This astrological world view believes in an active Anima Mundi, or soul of the world, that recognizes, works with and acts upon us in response as we recognize,work with and act upon it. This is major aspect of hindu thought as well, where one performs homams, yagnas or pujas for certain results. As we participate with this force, it reciprocates and answers us. Part of this tradition includes assigning what are called "remedial measures" or remedies for problems in the natal chart. This can be done by doing things like wearing gemstones, repeating mantras, using yantras, or even doing mundane tasks like feeding a black dog. Making a pilgrimage to the Navagraha temples is also a form of remedial measure that gives a boost to the entire birth chart, as the pilgrim receives "darshan" of all of the planets.

Darshan means "to view", and the thing that I learned when on this pilgrimage was that, by receiving Darshan, I wasn't just getting to view the deity, the deity also got to view me and take note of my respect and devotion.

The journey was wonderful and scenic, especially at 6 am when we started out. Most of these temples are in small villages surrounding Kumbakonam, and the scenery is replete with Coconut trees and lush foliage. The temples are all in Southern Dravidian style. A few of them, like the Vaitheeswaram Koil, are archtecturally important with beautiful sculptures.

A few of these temple experiences are worth noting. Most astrologers know that the planets have significations, or things that they represent. For instance, the Moon represents the color white. At the Chandra(Moon)shrine in Thingaloor, my driver and I were offered round white sweets. Mercury rules young people, and all of the pujaris at the Bhuda(Mercury)shrine in Thiruvenkadu were young boys. But I had the most amazing experience at Vaitheeswaram Koil, which is an extremely famous and powerful temple in it's own right. Vaitheeswaram Koil houses the Angkara(Mars) shrine. Mars rules war, contentions and the letting of blood. After taking off my shoes before entering the temple I immediately stubbed my toe, drawing blood. I hadn't even entered yet and walked into the temple with my bloody foot, realizing that the presence of Mars was permeating this entire site. The Angkara shrine was crowded with many pilgrims from all over India, and as I drew nearer I realized that all of them were arguing intensely!!! Mars was most certainly present in that place!

As I mentioned, Vaitheeswaram Koil is a famous and important temple in it's own right. The site is also famous for a particular style of astrological reading called Nadi. These readings use your thumb print in order to find Nadi leaves that correspond to the print. The astrologer then does a reading based on what the leaves say. I didn't have a Nadi reading while I was there because I had heard that there are many charlatans there who just want to take your money, but I have since heard about a few reputable astrologers there who are supposed to be the real thing.

Kumbakonam is easily reached by train and bus from Chennai and most other towns in Tamil Nadu. By the way, for non-vegetarians, I had one of the best Biryanis that I have ever tasted in Thirunallar, while waiting to get into the Sani (Saturn) Temple.

The list of temples are as follows:

Surya Navagrahastalam -- Sooriyanar Kovil

Chandra Navagrahastalam -- Thingaloor

Angaarakan Navagrahastalam -- Vaitheeswaran Kovil

Budha Navagrahastalam -- Thiruvenkadu

Guru Navagrahastalam -- Alangudi

Sukra Navagrahastalam -- Kanjanur

Shani Navagrahastalam -- Thirunallar

Rahu Navagrahastalam -- Thirunageswaram

I'timād-ud-Daulah: Agra's Other Architectural Miracle

On everyone's first journey to India (except mine), one usually visits what is known as "The Golden Triangle": Delhi, Agra, Jaipur. You often hear that a person cannot visit India without seeing the Taj Mahal in Agra, and for the most part they are correct.

However, just 6 kilometers away from the Taj Mahal, seated on the banks of the Yamuna river, is another Mausoleum known as the "jewel box" - I'timād-ud-Daulah.

The mausoleum was commissioned by Nūr Jahān, the wife of Jahangir, for her father Mirzā Ghiyās Beg, who had been given the title of I'timād-ud-Daulah (pillar of the state). Mirzā Ghiyās Beg was also the grandfather of Mumtāz Mahāl, the wife of the emperor Shāh Jahān, for whom the Taj Mahal was constructed. Many of Nūr Jahān's relatives are interred in the mausoleum.

Located on the left bank of the Yamuna river, the mausoleum is set in a large cruciform garden criss-crossed by water courses and walkways. The mausoleum itself covers about twenty-three meters square, and is built on a base about fifty meters square and about one meter high. On each corner are hexagonal towers, about thirteen meters tall.

The first tomb to be built in white marble instead of red sandstone, it marks the departure from the red sandstone buildings of Mughal architecture. The walls are encrusted with semi-precious stone decorations in the pietra dura style. Cornelian, jasper, lapis lazuli, onyx, and topaz are formed into images of cypress trees and wine bottles, or more elaborate decorations like cut fruit or vases containing bouquets. Light penetrates to the interior through delicate jālī screens of intricately carved white marble.

With so much emphasis on seeing the Taj Mahal, this monument can be easily overlooked. However, the good thing about that is fewer crowds and touts. Be sure to see it when you're there.

Pattadakal: Chalukya Capital and World Heritage Site in Karnataka

Pattadakal was the capital of the Badami Chalukya Dynasty in Karnataka. From Wikipedia:

The rule of the Chalukyas marks an important milestone in the history of South India and a golden age in the history of Karnataka. The political atmosphere in South India shifted from smaller kingdoms to large empires with the ascendancy of Badami Chalukyas. A Southern India based kingdom took control and consolidated the entire region between the Kaveri and the Narmada rivers. The rise of this empire saw the birth of efficient administration, overseas trade and commerce and the development of new style of architecture called "Chalukyan architecture"

In 1987, Pattadakal was named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. The architectural tradition begun by the Chalukyas, and continued by the Hoysala and Vijayanagara empires, created an amazing precedent that has since marked Karnataka as one of the most important centers of Temple architecture in all of India.

Pattadakal has a set of nine temples built almost in a single file. Four of the temples here are in the south Indian Dravidian architectural style while four are in the north Indian Nagara style. Another temple exhibits a hybrid style known as Vesara style.

The Virupaksha temple, pictured above, is in the south Indian style and is almost a replica of the Kailasanatha temple of Kanchi. While the Kailasanatha temple of Kanchi served as a model for this temple, this temple served as the model for the Ellora Kailasanatha temple in Maharashtra. It was built by Lokeswari one of the queens of Vikramaditya II in honor of his victorious battle against the Pallavas of Kanchi in the year 735 CE.

The Mallikarjuna temple was built immediately after and close to the Virupaksha temple (It has a similar plan). Mallikarjuna temple was built in the Dravidian style. To the north of the Mallikarjuna temple is the temple of Kashivishveshvara of which only the sanctum and a passage is left. It was built by the Rashtrakutas in the 8th century in the Northern Nagara style.

Pattadakal is 500 miles away from Bangalore, very close to Badami, another Chalukya stronghold. There are architectural sites of great interest interspersed all over Karnataka, and while travel in this state can be less convenient and luxurious, the results are extremely rewarding.

Kumbhalgarh: Second Longest Contiguous Wall in The World

We all know that the Great Wall of China is the longest contiguous wall in the world, but did you know that the second longest wall is in Rajasthan, India?

Kumbhalgarh Fort was conceived, designed and built by Rana Kumbh, a descendant of the Sisodia rulers of the Mewar kingdom of Rajasthan, in the 15th century . The fort stands 1100 meters above sea level, and its wall extends 36 kilometers.

There is an interesting legend involving the construction of the wall. From Wikipedia:

"According to legend, in 1443, the Maharana of Kumbhalgarh, Rana Kumbha, was initially repeatedly unsuccessful in attempts to build the fort wall. A spiritual preceptor was consulted about the construction problems and advised the ruler that a voluntary human sacrifice would solve whatever was causing the impediment. The spiritual advisor advised building a temple where the head should fall, and to build the wall and the fort where the rest of his body lay. As can be expected, for some time no one volunteered, but one day, a pilgrim, or some versions suggest a soldier, and some the spiritual preceptor and the pilgrim were one and the same, volunteered and was ritually decapitated. Today the main gate of the fortress, Hanuman Pol, contains a shrine and a temple to commemorate the great sacrifice."

Compared to other places in Rajasthan, Kumbalgarh shows up on fewer people's itineraries, but it, along with the Jain temples at Ranakpur, makes an excellent daytrip from Udaipur.